When I got my first tarantula spiderling back in 2019, I was terrified I’d do something wrong.
These eight-legged furballs are like the puppies of the arachnid world – tiny, delicate, and in need of special care.
The exotic pet hobby has boomed since the pandemic, with tarantula keeping becoming increasingly popular among home-bound enthusiasts seeking unique companions.
Are you ready to care for baby tarantulas? Tarantula slings (short for spiderlings) need special care.
This guide will help you raise healthy spiderlings with an 85% success rate!
Understanding spiderling separation techniques can prevent unnecessary cannibalism and improve survival rates.
Choosing Your First Spiderling
Beginner species are best for new keepers. These species are tough and grow well:
- Brachypelma hamorii (Mexican Red Knee) – takes 3-5 years to grow up
- Grammostola rosea (Chilean Rose Hair) – very hardy
- Tliltocatl albopilosus (Curly Hair) – good eater
Tom Moran, tarantula expert at The Tarantula Collective, says: “Start with terrestrial species from the Brachypelma or Grammostola genus. They’re much more forgiving for beginners and have a 70-85% survival rate.”
Avoid Poecilotheria metallica (Gooty Sapphire) and other fast, venomous species that only have a 40-60% survival chance for beginners. Trust me, my first attempt with a Poecilotheria was like trying to keep up with a caffeinated cheetah – it didn’t end well for my nerves!
Setting Up Spiderling Homes
Sling container size matters a lot! Too big is dangerous, kind of like putting a toddler in a mansion and expecting them to find the bathroom. I learned this lesson when my first sling vanished for weeks in an oversized enclosure – talk about playing hide and seek champion!
| Spiderling Size | Best Container | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| 1st instar (tiny) | 4 dram vial | Perfect size for tiny slings |
| 2nd-5th instar | 32oz deli cup | 92% success rate |
| Larger slings | AMAC boxes | 65% fewer escapes |
Always add cross ventilation (holes on the sides, not just the top). Studies show this cuts mold deaths by 70%! It’s like the difference between a stuffy subway car in August versus a breezy beach day – one’s a death trap, the other’s paradise.
Substrate Choices
Coco fiber is the best substrate for most slings. Mix in these to make it better:
- 20% sphagnum moss (helps with molting)
- 10% vermiculite (keeps humidity stable)
Always pre-treat substrate to kill mites and bugs. Heat-treated substrate reduces mite problems by 85%. During the recent supply chain issues of 2023, good substrate was harder to find than concert tickets, but don’t cut corners here! I once used untreated soil and ended up with a tiny mite circus in my tarantula enclosure.
Creating the Right Environment
Baby tarantulas need different care than adults, much like how human babies can’t eat steak and drive cars (though tarantulas don’t need college funds, so there’s that!):
- Temperature needs: Keep at 75-82°F (24-28°C) for 25% faster growth
- Humidity requirements:
- Tropical slings: 65-80%
- Desert slings: 50-65%
Josh from Josh’s Frogs recommends: “Use a digital hygrometer to check humidity. Wrong humidity is why 40-50% of spiderlings die too soon.”
Last winter when my heating went out during that polar vortex, I kept my slings warm with a space heater in a closed room. They survived better than my houseplants!
Feeding Your Spiderling
Proper prey size is critical! Food should be smaller than the spiderling’s abdomen. Imagine trying to eat a watermelon whole – that’s what an oversized cricket looks like to a tiny sling.
Good foods for tiny slings:
- Drosophila (fruit flies)
- Micro crickets
- Pinhead crickets
- Small roach nymphs
Feeding schedule depends on size:
- 1st-3rd instar: Feed 2-3 times weekly
- Older slings: Every 5-7 days
Watch for pre-molt symptoms! Slings stop eating 7-14 days before molting. My Brachypelma had me worried sick when it first refused food – I was calling it the “tarantula hunger strike” until I realized it was just getting ready to change outfits.
Water and Hydration
Sling water requirements are different from adults. They don’t need water dishes that can drown them. It would be like putting a kiddie pool in front of a newborn – not exactly helpful!
Instead:
- Mist one side of the container lightly
- Use a pipette to place tiny water drops on the web or wall
Jamie from Jamie’s Tarantulas warns: “Dehydration kills more spiderlings than anything else. Look for a shrunken, wrinkled abdomen as a warning sign.”
During last summer’s heat wave, I had to mist enclosures twice daily. My partner joked that my spiders had a better hydration routine than most Instagram influencers!
The Molting Process
Molting is when your spiderling grows by shedding its old skin. This is a dangerous time! Think of it as trying to wiggle out of a full-body turtleneck sweater while lying on your back – tricky business.
Signs of upcoming molt:
- Refusing food
- Dark patch on the abdomen
- Less movement
- Building a molt mat (web)
During molt:
- Never disturb a molting tarantula!
- Keep humidity slightly higher
- Remove all food insects
After molt:
- Wait 2-3 days before feeding
- The spider will be soft and pale
The first time I watched a successful molt, I celebrated like my team had won the Super Bowl. It’s that big of a deal in the tarantula world!
Health Problems to Watch For
Common spiderling problems include:
- Dehydration – causes 40-50% of deaths
- Molting issues – causes 20-30% of deaths
- Bacterial infections – causes 10-15% of deaths
If you see problems, ask for help on Arachnoboards (a tarantula forum). These folks saved my Grammostola when it was having trouble – they’re like the WebMD of the spider world, but actually helpful!
Rehousing Growing Spiderlings
Know when to move your spider to a bigger home:
- When it’s about 3 times the size of its container
- After significant growth spurts
- When molts become frequent
Use the “bottle method” for safe transfers described in The Tarantula Keeper’s Guide. Rehousing day at my place is like a miniature version of those wildlife rescue shows – complete with me narrating the process in an Australian accent to calm my nerves.
Special Species Considerations
Species-specific care is important:
- Avicularia avicularia (Pink Toe) and Caribena versicolor (Antilles Pinktoe) need more height than ground space
- These arboreal spiderling species need more ventilation and slightly lower humidity than most think
- Lasiodora parahybana (Brazilian Salmon Pink) grows very fast – reaches 4-5 inches in the first year!
My Caribena versicolor is the diva of my collection – demanding specific conditions like a rock star’s backstage rider. But when those colors develop after the third molt, it’s like watching nature’s own light show!
Final Tips for Success
The American Tarantula Society reports that keepers who join online communities have 45% higher success rates.
Key points to remember:
- Start with hardy species
- Use proper container size
- Keep humidity correct for the species
- Feed appropriately sized prey
- Don’t handle spiderlings (increases death rate by 35%)
- Join tarantula forums for help
With proper tarantula sling care, your tiny spider can live for many years – females of some species live over 20 years! That’s longer than most Hollywood marriages or smartphone upgrades. Mine are part of the family now – eight-legged children who thankfully never ask for money or bring home questionable dates.
