Are you seeing signs that your pet spider might be having babies? Boy, I remember the first time I noticed my Chilean Rose getting plumper – talk about spider suspense!
Taking care of a pregnant tarantula needs special care, much like how my neighbor needs his morning coffee before anyone can talk to him.
This guide will teach you everything you need to know about tarantula breeding techniques and maternal care.
Once a female tarantula becomes gravid, setting up a proper breeding enclosure ensures a safe and stress-free environment for egg sac development.
How to Know If Your Tarantula Is Pregnant
Your tarantula isn’t technically “pregnant” but “gravid” (carrying eggs) – kind of like saying someone’s “expecting” instead of “pregnant” at those awkward family gatherings. Here are signs of a gravid tarantula:
- A swollen abdomen that looks bigger than normal (like me after Thanksgiving dinner!)
- Less moving around (who wants to jog when you’re carrying hundreds of babies?)
- Eating more food than usual (eating for 200+, literally)
- Building a thick web mat on the ground (the spider equivalent of nesting)
- Refusing food as she gets closer to making an egg sac (pre-birth jitters, spider style)
The tarantula reproduction cycle takes time. According to breeder data, most species are gravid for 1-3 months before making an egg sac. That’s shorter than a semester in college, but probably feels like forever to the spider!
Setting Up the Perfect Home
A good breeding enclosure is very important. Your gravid tarantula needs a comfortable space – think of it as spider real estate where location, location, location is everything!
- A tank that’s 3 times her leg span in length and width (no tiny apartments for expectant mothers!)
- At least 4 inches of substrate for egg laying (deeper is better – studies show 25% higher success rates with deeper substrate)
- A water dish that’s easy to reach (no pregnant spider should have to hike for hydration)
- The right temperature and humidity (see table below)
Tom Moran, tarantula expert and founder of Tom’s Big Spiders says: “The biggest mistake new breeders make is disturbing the female too often. Once you notice she’s gravid, set up her enclosure properly and then leave her alone except for adding water.”
Last summer, I learned this lesson the hard way when my curious cat kept batting at my tarantula’s enclosure. Let’s just say my Avicularia wasn’t impressed with the feline attention!
Temperature and Humidity Needs
| Species | Best Temperature | Best Humidity |
|---|---|---|
| Mexican Red Knee (Brachypelma hamorii) | 75-82°F | 60-70% |
| Chilean Rose (Grammostola rosea) | 75-80°F | 65-70% |
| Pink Toe (Avicularia avicularia) | 78-82°F | 75-85% |
Using a digital hygrometer and temperature controller will help you keep these levels steady. Studies show that big swings in humidity (more than 15%) cause a 65% failure rate for egg sacs. It’s like trying to bake a soufflé during an earthquake – not a recipe for success!
Feeding Your Gravid Tarantula
Nutritional requirements during pregnancy are higher than normal. Just like my Aunt Martha who suddenly needed pickles with ice cream when she was expecting, your spider has special cravings too! Feed your tarantula:
- Crickets or Dubia roaches (gut-loaded with nutrients) – think of them as prenatal vitamins with legs
- More often than usual (2-3 times per week) – growing all those babies takes energy!
- Stop feeding when she stops eating (usually 1-2 weeks before making an egg sac) – she knows what she’s doing
Data shows that good feeding before breeding leads to 30-40% higher success rates. In the spider world, a well-fed mom is the difference between “meh” and “magnificent” babies!
The Egg Sac Stage
When your tarantula makes an egg sac, you have two choices for egg sac maintenance:
- Let the mother take care of it (maternal instinct variations exist between species) – she’s been preparing for this since SpiderCon 2023!
- Use artificial incubation methods (can increase survival by 20-30%) – becoming a spider nanny
If you choose option 2, wait 7-14 days after she makes the sac, then carefully remove it. It’s like being the surrogate grandparent who says “Let me watch the kids so you can get some sleep!”
For artificial incubation:
- Use a small container with air holes (spider daycare center)
- Add slightly damp vermiculite substrate or coco coir (the perfect spider crib mattress)
- Keep at the same temperature as the mother’s tank (no cold feet for baby spiders!)
- Watch for fungus prevention (25% of artificially incubated sacs get fungus) – nobody wants moldy babies
After the Egg Sac
Post-breeding female recovery takes about 2-4 weeks. During this time:
- Offer small prey items (spa treatment, spider style)
- Keep her enclosure quiet (no spider raves allowed)
- Maintain good humidity (dry air is nobody’s friend)
The egg sac hatching timeline varies by species:
| Species | Egg Sac Development | Average Brood Size |
|---|---|---|
| Mexican Red Knee | 60-70 days | 200-400 spiderlings |
| Chilean Rose | 45-60 days | 100-300 spiderlings |
| Pink Toe | 40-50 days | 80-150 spiderlings |
I still remember waiting for my first successful sac to hatch – checking it every morning like a kid waiting for Christmas!
Taking Care of Baby Spiders
Once the sac hatches, you’ll need to handle separating tarantula spiderlings. This happens about 2-3 weeks after they first come out of the sac. It’s like kindergarten graduation – time for the little ones to move out on their own!
For first feeding for spiderlings:
- Use pre-killed tiny crickets or fruit flies (baby food, arachnid edition)
- Feed after their first molt outside the sac (they need to stretch their new exoskeletons first)
- Provide shallow water caps for drinking (no Olympic-sized pools – they’re not Michael Phelps!)
Common Problems
Watch for these issues:
- Failed egg sac causes: temperature problems, first-time mother (35% of first-time mothers abandon sacs) – just like my first attempt at sourdough bread during the 2020 lockdown
- Egg sac rupture concerns: usually from too dry conditions (nobody likes cracked skin, even spiders)
- Cannibalism prevention: keep the mother well-fed before breeding (hungry moms make bad decisions)
- Fungus prevention methods: good air flow and clean conditions (basic spider hygiene 101)
Learn More About Tarantula Breeding
For more information, check out these resources:
- Join Arachnoboards Forum to connect with other breeders
- Read “The Tarantula Keeper’s Guide” by the American Tarantula Society
- Watch tutorials from The Tarantula Collective for visual guides
The Theraphosidae family (tarantulas) have been breeding in captivity since the 1970s, right around when bell-bottoms were all the rage. With proper care and patience, you can successfully breed these amazing creatures too.
Ethical breeding considerations should always be your top priority. Make sure you have homes for the spiderlings before breeding, as one successful breeding can produce hundreds of baby tarantulas! As someone who once had 200+ baby spiders in my spare bedroom, trust me on this one!
As British Tarantula Society chairman Ray Gabriel notes: “Breeding tarantulas isn’t just about production of spiderlings. It’s about contributing to our understanding of these magnificent creatures and ensuring captive populations remain healthy.”
Remember that patience and careful observation are your best tools for successful tarantula breeding! In a world where everyone wants instant results, tarantula breeding teaches you that good things come to those who wait… and don’t freak out when hundreds of tiny spiders start crawling everywhere!
