Did you know that 75-85% of pet tarantula deaths occur during molting?
This natural but critical process—where tarantulas shed their entire exoskeleton to grow—is the most dangerous time in your spider’s life.
Molting transforms your tarantula from its old, tight skin into a newer, bigger version of itself.
With the right care during this vulnerable period, you can dramatically increase your eight-legged friend’s chances of survival. This guide provides everything you need to help your tarantula molt safely.
Maintaining the right humidity levels during the pre-molt stage is crucial for creating optimal conditions for a successful molt.
Understanding the Tarantula Molting Cycle
Signs Your Tarantula is Preparing to Molt
My buddy Carlos calls this the “teenage spider phase” – they get moody, stop eating, and spend a lot of time in their room! Watch for these signs that your eight-legged friend will molt soon:
- Darkened abdomen – the back part of your spider turns darker (like it’s wearing goth makeup)
- Not eating for 1-3 weeks (refusing even its favorite cricket snacks)
- Moving less and seeming lazy (spider couch potato mode: activated)
- Making a special web mat to lie on (their version of laying out a yoga mat)
- Hiding more than usual (playing the world’s longest game of hide-and-seek)
“When a tarantula stops eating and shows a darkened abdomen, it’s almost certainly preparing to molt. These are nature’s way of telling you to prepare,” says Tom Patterson from the American Tarantula Society.
The Molting Process Timeline
The whole process has three main parts:
- Pre-molt phase: Lasts 2-4 weeks with the signs listed above
- Active molting: Takes between 30 minutes to 24+ hours (longer than most Netflix binges!)
- Post-molt vulnerability: Lasts 7-14 days while the new skin hardens (softer than a marshmallow in this phase)
Creating Optimal Molting Conditions
Humidity Requirements for Successful Molts
Different spiders need different moisture levels, kind of like how my curly hair needs more conditioner than my husband’s buzz cut:
| Type of Tarantula | Needed Humidity |
|---|---|
| Desert species like Mexican Red-Knee | 50-60% |
| Tropical species like Pink Toe | 70-85% |
Use a digital hygrometer to check humidity. Mist the tank with a spray bottle to add moisture if needed.
Last summer during that crazy heat wave, I had to mist my Avicularia avicularia‘s enclosure twice daily just to keep the humidity up. Poor thing was practically begging for a spritz!
Temperature Regulation During Molting
Keep your spider’s home between 75-82°F (24-28°C) during molting. Avoid big temperature changes.
Never put a heat mat directly under the tank – this can stress or kill your spider faster than my grandma’s reaction to finding a real spider in her bathroom.
Proper Enclosure Setup for Stress-Free Molting
Your tank setup must have:
- The right substrate (bedding) – coconut fiber works well for most species (my spiders prefer this over the fancy organic stuff I splurged on once)
- Keep substrate moisture at 60-70% (damp like a towel after you’ve wrung it out)
- A good hiding spot like cork bark (spider’s version of a man cave)
- A shallow water dish that’s always full (no spider deserves to be thirsty)
- Good ventilation so air can flow (nobody likes a stuffy room, even spiders)
Pre-Molt Care to Prevent Stress
Feeding Schedule Adjustments
Stop feeding your tarantula 1-3 weeks before you think it will molt. Food left in the tank can stress or hurt your molting spider.
I learned this the hard way when a cricket decided to nibble on my Grammostola rosea during her vulnerable molting time. Talk about adding insult to injury! Make sure fresh water is always available.
Minimizing Disturbances
During pre-molt and molting:
- Never handle your tarantula (as tempting as it might be)
- Keep the tank at least 3 feet (1 meter) away from speakers or machines (no spider raves allowed)
- Lower the lights – tarantulas are 300-500% more sensitive to light during molting (they’re the vampires of the arachnid world)
- Don’t move the tank or tap on the glass (imagine someone shaking your house while you’re trying to squeeze out of your skin!)
During-Molt Protocol
What to Do (and Not Do) When Your Tarantula is Molting
DO NOT touch or disturb a molting tarantula! This is the #1 rule. Even if your spider looks stuck or in trouble, it’s almost always better to let nature work. Less than 5% of human help during molting actually works. It’s like trying to help a butterfly out of its chrysalis – your “help” usually causes more harm than good.
Your tarantula will usually flip on its back to molt. This is normal. It might look dead, but it’s not. Be patient. My friend Jen once thought her tarantula had died, wrapped it in a tissue for burial, and nearly had a heart attack when it moved in the “coffin” after completing its molt. Talk about a spider-themed horror movie!
Post-Molt Care for Recovery
The Critical Hardening Period
After molting, your spider’s new exoskeleton needs time to harden:
- Keep humidity and temperature steady (consistency is key, like sticking to a diet… which I’m terrible at)
- Wait at least 7 days before any tank cleaning (no spring cleaning during recovery)
- Be extra careful about loud noises and bright lights (your spider has the worst hangover of its life)
When to Resume Feeding
Wait 7-10 days before offering food. Start with prey smaller than normal. A study showed spiders fed gut-loaded prey (insects fed nutritious food) had 65% better molting success rates.
Think of it like serving your spider superfood smoothies instead of fast food!
Exuvia Removal Timing
The shed skin (called an exuvia) can be removed after your spider has moved away from it. Don’t rush to take it out if your spider is still near it.
I keep all my tarantulas’ molts in labeled containers – it’s like having baby books for my spider children! My coworkers think it’s weird, but hey, we all have our hobbies.
Special Considerations for Different Tarantula Species
Terrestrial (ground-dwelling) spiders like the Chilean Rose Tarantula often dig or hide before molting. Arboreal (tree-dwelling) spiders like Caribena versicolor may make web hammocks up high. It’s like comparing people who build pillow forts on the floor versus those who make tree houses!
Young spiders molt much more often:
- Spiderlings: every 1-2 months (growing faster than my nephew’s feet)
- Juveniles: every 3-6 months (like teenagers outgrowing their clothes)
- Adults: every 6-24 months (settled down into their final size)
Troubleshooting Common Molting Problems
Signs of Molting Stress
Watch for:
- Unusual movements or twitching (spider version of a panic attack)
- Being stuck halfway out of old skin (fashion emergency!)
- Chelicerae (fangs) or legs stuck (the spider equivalent of getting your sweater stuck over your head)
- Not moving for more than 24 hours after seeming to finish molting (concerning couch potato behavior)
Emergency Care for Stuck Molts
If your spider has been truly stuck for 24+ hours, you may need to help. Visit Arachnoboards Forum for emergency advice from experts.
“A stuck molt is an emergency situation that requires careful intervention. Increasing humidity slightly and applying a tiny drop of water near—not on—the stuck area can sometimes help,” explains Dr. Amanda Wilson, exotic pet veterinarian.
During the pandemic lockdowns of 2020-2022, the exotic pet community really came together online to help each other through emergencies like this. I’ve seen tarantula keepers stay up all night on video calls coaching newbies through scary molting situations!
FAQs About Tarantula Molting
Q: Can I feed my tarantula during molting? A: No! Never feed during pre-molt or molting. That’s like offering someone a sandwich while they’re stuck in a wetsuit.
Q: How long will my tarantula not eat before molting? A: Usually 1-3 weeks, but sometimes longer for adult females. My oldest female once fasted for 38 days before molting – she’s more dedicated to pre-molt fasting than I am to my New Year’s resolutions!
Q: Is it normal for my tarantula to lose hair before molting? A: Yes, some species like Brachypelma hamorii may kick off urticating hairs when stressed. Think of it as the spider version of stress-shedding (like humans losing hair when stressed, except they do it on purpose as a defense).
Quick Checklist for Molt Preparation
- ✓ Proper humidity level (check with hygrometer)
- ✓ Correct temperature (75-82°F)
- ✓ Full water dish
- ✓ Good hiding spot
- ✓ Stop feeding
- ✓ Keep tank in quiet, low-light area
- ✓ Be patient – nature knows best!
For more detailed information about tarantula care, check out The Tarantula Keeper’s Guide by Stanley A. Schultz, the most trusted resource in the hobby.
As my vet Dr. Martinez says: “In the tarantula world, a successful molt is worth celebrating like a birthday.” So true! Every time one of my eight spooky children makes it through a molt safely, I treat myself to a fancy coffee. At this point, the baristas at my local café ask, “Which spider molted this time?” whenever I order the expensive drinks!
