Did your first tarantula come with a manual? Mine didn’t!
These fascinating creatures require specific care that most beginners get wrong.
From deadly falls to deadly humidity levels, simple mistakes can harm your eight-legged friend.
This guide covers the most common tarantula keeping errors and how to avoid them, based on real data from hundreds of experienced keepers.
Avoid common beginner mistakes and learn the best tarantula care practices with this helpful Tarantula for beginners guide.
https://zooawesome.com/wild-pets/from-scared-to-spider-parent-best-tarantulas-for-beginners-expert-guide/
Housing Mistakes That Harm Your Spider
Wrong Enclosure Size and Type
26% of all beginner problems come from bad housing. It’s like trying to keep a fish in a hamster ball – just doesn’t work!
The most common mistake? Not matching the home to your specific spider type.
- Terrestrial spiders (ground dwellers) need more floor space than height
- Arboreal spiders (tree dwellers) need tall enclosures with climbing spots
I learned this the hard way when I put my first jumping spider in a tall enclosure. Poor little guy spent the entire week trying to dig through the bottom like he was planning a prison break!
“I see new keepers put their Avicularia avicularia in short tanks all the time. These Common Pinktoes need height! 72% of owners make this mistake,” says Tom Moran, tarantula expert and YouTuber.
Look at these species-specific housing needs:
| Species | Common Mistake | How Many Make This Error |
|---|---|---|
| Caribena versicolor (Antilles Pinktoe) | Poor air flow with high moisture | 79% |
| Lasiodora parahybana (Brazilian Salmon Pink) | Too small tanks as they grow | 76% |
| Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens (Green Bottle Blue) | Wrong enclosure height | 67% |
Air Flow and Moisture Balance
Finding the right mix of air flow and moisture is trickier than getting the perfect shower temperature in a hotel. Poor ventilation in damp enclosures creates mold that can kill your spider faster than you can say “arachnophobia.”
Just last month, my cousin sent me a picture of her new tarantula setup, and it looked like a sauna in there! I had to explain that tarantulas don’t actually need spa days.
Signs of bad air flow:
- Foggy tank walls (like your bathroom mirror after a hot shower)
- Mold growing on substrate (fuzzy green roommates – not welcome!)
- Spider staying in one corner (the equivalent of your spider holding up a tiny “HELP ME” sign)
For good air flow, your tank needs:
- Mesh top or sides (never fully sealed – they need to breathe, folks!)
- Cross-ventilation (holes on opposite sides)
- Regular checks for mold
Substrate Problems
The “dirt” in your tarantula’s home matters a lot! Studies show 5% of beginner problems come from wrong substrate choice or insufficient substrate depth.
Picking the wrong substrate is like choosing carpet for your bathroom – seems fine until suddenly it really, really isn’t.
Good substrates:
- Coconut fiber
- Peat moss
- Chemical-free topsoil
Bad substrates:
- Sand (it’s coarse and rough and irritating, and it gets everywhere – just ask Anakin)
- Gravel
- Wood chips
- Pine or cedar products (toxic! Like giving your spider a gas chamber)
For burrowing species like the Tliltocatl albopilosus (Curly Hair), you need at least 4-6 inches of substrate. Over half (51%) of owners don’t provide enough. That’s like giving someone a shovel but no dirt to dig in!
Handling and Safety Errors
Too Much Handling
The second most common mistake (22.2% of all issues) is excessive handling. Tarantulas are look-don’t-touch pets!
I know it’s tempting. When I got my first tarantula back in 2018, I wanted to show her off to everyone. But trust me, your spider will thank you (by not dying) if you keep the handling to a minimum.
Handling risks:
- Stress to your spider (imagine being picked up by a giant 100x your size!)
- Falls that can be deadly (tarantulas are as fragile as your grandma’s fine china)
- Bites or hair flicking (their version of saying “put me down NOW”)
- Escaped tarantulas (nothing says “fun Friday night” like searching for a spider in your sock drawer)
“Tarantulas aren’t dogs or cats. They don’t need or enjoy human contact,” explains Arachnoboards forum expert JasonMom42. “Handling should be rare, if ever.”
Dangerous Handling Practices
If you must handle your spider (maybe to impress that special someone – though I recommend flowers instead), avoid these deadly errors:
- Holding too high off the ground – A fall from just 1-2 feet can crack a tarantula’s exoskeleton. Data shows 20.9% of first-year deaths come from bad falls. It’s like dropping an egg – except this egg has feelings and costs $75.
- Handling during feeding or molting – 34% of all bite incidents happen during feeding time. Would you want someone grabbing at you while you’re enjoying a burger? Neither does your spider.
- Grabbing or pinching – Always let the spider walk onto your open hand. Grabbing a tarantula is like trying to pick up jello with chopsticks – messy and nobody wins.
Not Respecting Defense Mechanisms
Don’t underestimate your spider’s defenses! Even my sweet Guatemalan Red Rump once gave me a hair flicking that had me itching like I’d rolled in poison ivy at summer camp.
Safety data shows:
| Problem | Number of Cases | How Serious |
|---|---|---|
| Hair flicking reactions | 198 (61.1%) | Mild to Moderate |
| Minor bites | 86 (26.5%) | Mild |
| Severe bites | 12 (3.7%) | Moderate to Severe |
89% of these incidents could have been prevented with proper knowledge and care! That’s like knowing most car accidents happen when it’s raining, yet still deciding to race during a thunderstorm.
Feeding Mistakes
Wrong Food Choices
18.5% of beginner problems come from feeding mistakes. Giving the wrong prey can hurt your spider worse than that all-you-can-eat sushi place with the 2-star health rating.
Good feeder insects:
- Crickets (appropriate size)
- Dubia roaches
- Mealworms
Bad feeders:
- Wild-caught insects (may have pesticides – it’s like serving your pet a side of Raid)
- Prey larger than your spider’s body
- Venomous insects like centipedes
I once watched a YouTube video where someone fed their tarantula a pinky mouse. Not only is this unnecessary, but it’s like trying to eat a Thanksgiving turkey in one bite!
Wrong Feeding Schedule
Overfeeding is a big problem, especially with the Mexican Red Knee (Brachypelma hamorii). Data shows 58% of owners overfeed this species.
My neighbor’s tarantula developed what we jokingly called a “cricket addiction.” He was feeding his adult spider every day! The poor thing’s abdomen was so swollen it looked like it might pop like a water balloon.
Adult tarantulas only need to eat:
- Fast metabolism species: once per week
- Slow metabolism species: every 10-14 days
- Large species: one large cricket or 2-3 small ones per feeding
Food Management Problems
Never leave live prey in the enclosure unattended. The cricket you put in for dinner could attack your spider during molting!
Picture this: you’re taking a nap and suddenly the hamburger you were planning to eat starts nibbling on YOU. Not a great way to wake up!
Temperature and Humidity Errors
Temperature Problems
8% of beginner issues relate to temperature mistakes. The biggest risk? Using heat rocks – these can burn your spider!
Safe temperature range for most tarantulas: 70-80°F (21-27°C)
Last winter during that crazy cold snap, my cousin tried using a heat lamp meant for reptiles. Her poor Chaco Golden Knee was trying to huddle in the corner furthest from the “sun of death” as we now call it.
“I never recommend heat lamps or heat rocks for beginners. A slightly cooler room temperature is much safer than risking burns,” says The Dark Den YouTube channel creator.
Humidity Balance Mistakes
11.6% of mistakes involve humidity problems. Different species need different moisture levels:
- Desert species (like Arizona Blonde): 30-50% humidity
- Tropical species (like Antilles Pinktoe): 65-75% humidity
It’s like vacation preferences – some people love dry desert heat, others need tropical beach vibes.
The most shocking statistic? 28.2% of all tarantula deaths in the first year come from dehydration!
Good news: If caught early, 83% of dehydrated tarantulas can recover within 2-7 days. My friend’s tarantula Fluffy (yes, seriously) bounced back after looking like a raisin for nearly a week.
Health Monitoring Mistakes
Missing Molting Signs
Molting (shedding skin) is when your spider is most vulnerable. 58% of experienced keepers say disturbing molting is a critical beginner error.
Imagine if someone kept poking you while you were trying to wiggle out of a full-body sweater – through your teeth. That’s basically what molting is like for tarantulas!
Pre-molt signs:
- Decreased appetite (turns down cricket offers like a picky toddler)
- Darker color
- Bald spot on abdomen
- Web mat on the ground
- Sluggish movement (moves like me on Monday mornings)
During molt, provide NO FOOD and DO NOT DISTURB for at least 7 days after molting completes.
Not Seeing Health Problems
Know the difference between normal and sick behavior. If your tarantula shows these signs, seek help on Arachnoboards Forum:
- Not moving for days (unless in pre-molt)
- Legs curled underneath body (the “death curl” – as ominous as it sounds)
- Leaking fluid
- Strange posture
- Refusing water for weeks
I once thought my tarantula was just being dramatic when she wouldn’t eat for three weeks. Turns out, she was in pre-molt. I nearly panicked and took her to the vet – which would have stressed her out more than watching the last season of Game of Thrones!
Species Selection Mistakes
Choosing Advanced Species as First Pets
15.7% of beginner problems come from picking the wrong species to start with.
It’s like learning to drive in a Ferrari – technically possible, but why make life harder?
Good beginner species:
- Grammostola pulchripes (Chaco Golden Knee)
- Grammostola rosea (Chilean Rose Hair)
- Aphonopelma chalcodes (Arizona Blonde)
- Tliltocatl albopilosus (Curly Hair)
Avoid as first tarantula:
- Old World species (Africa, Asia, Australia) – more defensive and venomous
- Very small species – harder to keep track of
- Fast-moving species – harder to contain during maintenance
My first tarantula was an Old World baboon spider. Big mistake! That little speed demon could run circles around Usain Bolt. I spent more time searching for her than actually enjoying her company!
Conclusion
The most important thing to remember: good research prevents most problems. The British Tarantula Society recommends new keepers spend at least two weeks learning before bringing home a spider.
That’s actually how I spent February 2023 – binging tarantula care videos while my girlfriend questioned my sanity. Worth it!
By avoiding these common mistakes, you’ll give your new pet the best chance at a long, healthy life. Most tarantula problems are easily avoided with the right knowledge!
First Aid for Common Problems:
| Problem | Recovery Rate | Time to Get Better |
|---|---|---|
| Not enough water | 83% if caught early | 2-7 days |
| Small fall damage | 65% | 1-3 molts |
| Not eating enough | 91% if caught early | 1-3 weeks |
| Stress from wrong humidity | 87% | 3-10 days |
Remember: When in doubt, less interaction is usually better for tarantulas. They’re not social animals and do best with minimal disturbance. As I like to tell visitors to my apartment: “My tarantulas are like fine art – best appreciated from a respectful distance.”
For more helpful resources on tarantula care, visit The Tarantula Collective for detailed care guides.
P.S. And if all this spider talk has you itching to start your own collection, just remember – unlike my friend Tony, make sure you’re prepared before your eight-legged friend arrives!
