Ever seen a tarantula literally crawl out of its own skin? This mind-blowing survival trick—molting—has kept arachnids thriving for 380 million years!
Unlike mammals with stretchy skin, tarantulas wear rigid armor that can’t expand. When they outgrow their exoskeleton, they must shed it entirely.
Tarantulas molt to grow larger, repair damaged parts, and replace worn-out defenses—an essential process for their survival and health.
A bald spot developing on the abdomen weeks before shedding is a primary indicator in pre-molt indicators in tarantulas.
The Biological Necessity of Tarantula Molting
What Is Molting in Tarantulas?
So what’s actually happening when your eight-legged buddy decides it’s time for a change? Well, special hormones (think of them as tiny chemical messengers) tell the tarantula, “Hey, it’s makeover time!” The spider then crafts a whole new soft exoskeleton underneath the old one—talk about planning ahead!
The discarded shell (or exuviae if you want to sound smart at spider parties) is made of a material called chitin. My friend’s kid once mistook her tarantula’s molt for a second pet and named it “Echo.” Awkward conversations followed!
Why Molting Is Essential for Tarantula Survival
Molting helps tarantulas in many ways:
- Growth – The main reason tarantulas molt (because being stuck in baby clothes forever would be a drag)
- Healing – They can fix or regrow lost legs (the spider equivalent of regrowing a whole arm—show-offs!)
- Renewal – They get new fangs and urticating hairs (those defensive hairs that make you itch like crazy)
- Cleaning – Their book lungs (breathing organs) get cleaned (like getting a brand new set of lungs with each makeover)
“Molting is the most important process in a tarantula’s life cycle,” says Stanley A. Schultz, author of The Tarantula Keeper’s Guide. “Without it, they cannot grow, heal injuries, or live a full life.”
My tarantula once lost a leg in a unfortunate incident involving my roommate’s panic and a flying shoe.
But guess what? After his next molt, that leg was growing back! Not full-size, mind you, but by the molt after that, you could hardly tell the difference. If only my hair would grow back that impressively!
The Complete Tarantula Molting Process Explained
Pre-Molt: Recognizing the Signs
You know how we get grumpy before big changes? Well, tarantulas have their own version of pre-makeover mood swings. You can tell your tarantula will molt soon when:
- It stops eating (food refusal) – like a spider version of pre-beach diet
- Its abdomen darkens – turning that booty a shade mysterious
- It becomes very still (lethargy) – couch potato mode: activated
- It makes a web mat to lie on – the spider equivalent of laying out a yoga mat
- It gets a bald spot on its abdomen – male pattern baldness comes for us all!
This pre-molt phase lasts 2-4 weeks. In my experience, this is when new tarantula owners freak out and think their pet is dying. Trust me, I’ve been there! Last year during the Olympics, my Chilean Rose tarantula refused food for nearly a month. She was just preparing for her molt, not staging a hunger strike against the gymnastics scoring.
During Molt: What Happens Step-by-Step
- The tarantula flips onto its back in a molting position (a heart-stopping moment for new owners)
- The old shell cracks open along the sides (like popping out of too-tight jeans)
- The tarantula slowly pulls out of the old shell (the world’s most intense yoga move)
- It comes out with a fresh, soft exoskeleton (baby-smooth and ready to party)
This takes between 15 minutes and 4 hours. The tarantula is very vulnerable during this time and must not be disturbed!
It’s like when you’re in the middle of a face mask treatment and the doorbell rings—except with way higher stakes.
Post-Molt: Recovery Period
After molting, your tarantula:
- Has brighter colors (fresh paint job!)
- Needs time for its new shell to harden (7-10 days)
- Should not be fed for at least one week (post-makeover recovery time)
- Needs proper humidity to recover well (spa-like conditions required)
When my Brachypelma finished her molt last winter, she went from a dull brown to this gorgeous copper-red that would make any fashionista jealous.
It was like watching those home renovation shows where they reveal the “after” and everyone gasps!
Tarantula Molting Frequency: What to Expect
Age-Related Molting Patterns
How often a tarantula molts depends on its age:
| Age Group | How Often They Molt |
|---|---|
| Baby tarantulas | Every 1-2 months |
| Young tarantulas | Every 3-4 months |
| Almost adult | Every 6-8 months |
| Adult females | Every 8-12 months |
| Adult males | Final terminal molt then stop |
Male tarantulas are like “one and done” after their final molt—they mature, find a lady friend, and that’s pretty much their bucket list completed.
Females, meanwhile, keep molting for decades! Talk about gender differences, am I right?
Species Variations in Molting
Different types of tarantulas molt at different rates:
- New World tarantulas like the Mexican Red-Knee (Brachypelma hamorii) molt about once a year as adults
- Old World tarantulas like the Gooty Sapphire (Poecilotheria metallica) often molt slightly faster
- Terrestrial species (ground-dwelling) and arboreal tarantulas (tree-dwelling) also have different patterns
- Big species like the Brazilian Salmon Pink Birdeater (Lasiodora parahybana) molt every 6-8 months
I’ve noticed how my friend’s arboreal Pink Toe tarantula molts much more frequently than my ground-dwelling Mexican Red-Knee.
It’s like comparing someone who changes their look with every fashion season versus someone who sticks with the classics!
Critical Tarantula Molting Problems and Solutions
Common Molting Complications
Even spider makeovers can go wrong sometimes:
- Stuck molt – When a tarantula can’t get fully out of its old shell (like getting stuck halfway through a sweater)
- Dehydration – Not enough moisture makes molting harder (dry skin problems, but extreme)
- Injuries – Legs can get stuck and break (the arachnid equivalent of a wardrobe malfunction)
About 5-8% of tarantulas have trouble with getting stuck in molt. The main cause is not enough humidity.
Tom Moran, tarantula expert and educator, says: “The number one reason for molting problems is improper humidity. Always make sure your tarantula has the right moisture level for its species.”
Last year, a spider-keeping friend had a nightmare scenario when her tarantula got stuck halfway through a molt. Picture trying to take off a tight shirt and getting it stuck over your head—except you can’t breathe or move until it’s off!
Thankfully, after carefully raising the humidity in the enclosure, the spider managed to free itself. I’ve never seen someone so happy about a successful wardrobe change!
Emergency Care Guidelines
If your tarantula is stuck:
- Don’t pull on the old shell (no tug-of-war with your spider!)
- Raise the humidity carefully (create a spider steam room)
- Wait at least 24 hours before doing anything (patience is more than a virtue—it’s a lifesaver)
- Only help in extreme cases using very gentle methods (like being a spider midwife)
Proper Tarantula Care During Molting Periods
Pre-Molt Care Requirements
When your tarantula is getting ready to molt:
- Keep the substrate (bedding) slightly damp (comfy and moist, like spa bedsheets)
- Don’t handle your spider (no paparazzi during prep time!)
- Remove uneaten food (nobody wants old takeout containers lying around during a big life event)
- Ensure proper temperature (75-82°F)
During the latest cold snap this winter, I had to add a small heat mat to my tarantula room when I noticed my Grammostola going into pre-molt. Nothing says “I care” like making sure your eight-legged roommate has the perfect molting environment!
Post-Molt Support Strategies
After your tarantula molts:
- Wait 7-10 days before offering food (recovery time is important)
- Make sure it has water (hydration station open 24/7)
- Leave the old exoskeleton for 24 hours (they sometimes eat it—waste not, want not!)
- Never handle a freshly molted tarantula (their new “skin” is as delicate as wet tissue paper)
FAQs About Tarantula Molting
Is molting painful for tarantulas? While we can’t ask them, experts believe it’s not painful but may be uncomfortable. Think of it as more “awkward” than painful—like wearing pants that are two sizes too small, then finally getting to take them off.
Should I remove the old exoskeleton? Wait at least a day. Some tarantulas eat their shed skin for nutrients. Talk about recycling! In our throwaway society, tarantulas were into sustainability before it was cool.
How can I tell if my tarantula is molting or dead? A molting tarantula is usually on its back with legs curled up. A dead tarantula is often in a “death curl” with legs pulled tight underneath. I still remember the panic-stricken text I sent my arachnologist friend at midnight: “SPIDER UPSIDE DOWN HELP!!!” Her calm reply: “Congrats, you’re about to witness a molt. Get the popcorn.”
For more detailed information on tarantula care, visit the American Tarantula Society or read through the excellent resources at Arachnoboards, the largest online community for tarantula enthusiasts.
