In the wild, leopard geckos can live most anywhere except the tropics. Their natural habitat ranges from deserts to tropical rainforests.
These geckos can survive in hot and humid climates, which makes them suitable pets in most places.
Leopard geckos are relatively hardy and adaptable, but their high metabolism and need for moisture can cause them to overheat.
Knowing how to keep a leopard gecko healthy and happy doesn’t come naturally to everyone.
You need to understand and take care of their needs to ensure their long-term success.
Do Leopard Geckos Get Too Hot?
Leopard geckos are native to the arid desert regions of Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India.
They are nocturnal reptiles that prefer lower temperatures and humidity.
In the wild, these lizards would experience temperature changes within a range of 65°F to 101°F throughout their day and night cycle.
The ideal temperatures for leopard geckos are between 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and from 70-75 degrees at night time.
The temperature should not exceed 80 degrees in your reptile’s habitat, as this can cause stress to your pet and lead to serious health issues over time.
What happens if my leopard gecko gets too hot?
If your leopard gecko gets too hot, it’s going to have some problems.
- Leopard geckos can start panting if they get too warm. Panting is where the animals open their mouths and breathe in and out rapidly to cool down. If this becomes a regular occurrence, you need to make sure your pet has somewhere cooler for them to sit or hide in (like under a rock) until things cool down again.
- Leopard geckos will become lethargic when they’re hot because moving around uses up energy that needs to be conserved so that they can keep themselves cool enough not to overheat. Leopards who are having trouble with heat exhaustion may be less active than usual, spending more time sleeping than doing anything else during the day (leopards are nocturnal).
- A lethargic leopard gecko isn’t the only sign of overheating though! Your little lizard might also seek out cooler areas in order to stay comfortable – like under something like an overturned pot or behind a decorative rock just in case there’s any wind circulating through your house that might help refresh him with its gentle breeze once he figures out how/where he wants his body positioned properly so as not cause too much disruption while trying desperately escape from what’s happening outside the windows.
How to tell if the tank is too hot for the leopard gecko?
If you’re worried that your leopard gecko’s tank is too hot, there are a few ways to tell.
Leopard geckos are cold-blooded and rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature.
Therefore, if their tank is too hot, they can get sick or even die.
Here are some signs that may indicate your leopard gecko’s tank is too hot:
- Your gecko has stopped eating or drinking.
- Your gecko has lost weight or looks skinny compared to what it should be for its age.
- It is spending an abnormal amount of time in one spot in the cage instead of moving around from place to place.
- Your gecko has developed sores on its skin (which may mean there’s something wrong with its nutrition).
How Do I Stop My Leopard Gecko From Getting Overheated?
If your Leopard gecko seems stressed from getting overheated here is what you should do:
Use a thermometer to check the temperature in the tank.
Leopard geckos are cold-blooded, so they need a healthy heat gradient in their terrarium to stay active and happy.
A good rule of thumb is that it should be no more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit on the warm side and no higher than 80 degrees on the cool side.
Ensure you have a cool side and a warm side for your leopard gecko to choose from throughout the day.
You can accomplish this by placing an object such as an old aquarium heater or hot rock under one end of your tank and leaving another area open for him to burrow into if he gets too hot or cold.
You can also add some water (for example, a shallow water bowl) to its habitat to help it keep things comfortable for it during those times when it chooses not to leave either end of its tank—which could be most days!
